Hi Everyone,
I have two 1890s Victorian corsets for sale on e-Bay this week. They are newly added to my website and have lots of construction details and pictures both in the e-Bay listing and on my website.

Have a look if you are at all interested.


Click on the photos to go to the e-Bay auctions :

    

Or click the following links to the pages on my website:

http://www.laracorsets.com/Antique_corset_0121.htm

http://www.laracorsets.com/Antique_corset_0115.htm

Thank you so much for having a look.
Happy Holidays to you all!
Lara

(Please forgive me for cross posting this a few times)

Here is a corset i just completed .
She measures an amazing 36" 21" 39"
I am quite happty with her, thanks for all who gave me advice

Prototype two three is ready for review! Full contact suggestions welcome. Let's see what we've got.

( Left Side mockup and final )

( Front mockup and final )

( Back mockup and final )

I smoothed the bust line considerably, but have the problem of back spill in an attempt to bring the bust under the arm forward. I have the previous iteration with a smoother back to refer to in prototype 3. I may also make the more dramatic pattern change and add another shaping panel. It's funny, I had an epiphany while at the spa for the approximate seam locations based on the wrinkles apparent in the robe I was wearing at the time. Even when I'm relaxing I'm thinking. Incidentally, every seamed bra I've ever worn has two seams that roughly join at the apex. If I eliminate the piecing over the apex you still need two seams that cross the bust line.

Anyway, this is the pattern I've delivered to her so that her skirt foundations can begin with the dressmaker. I have another corset that I have drafted and prototyped and two more to draft. That proto will be in another post.

This is my first authentic corset attempt.  I have made flimsy garments in the shape of a corset but never implemented the structural elements.   I had a few problems during this mock up and would love to get any opinions on what could have been done differently to get a sleeker more appealing result.  I know already that my busk is not placed correctly or it is the wrong size - it should be further up no?  I have not binded the edges b/c I am having trouble finding something attractive to bind it with.  I think doing it in the twill the corset is made of might not work with me... suggestions opinions? I never decided on the definite shape that I wanted the top or bottom while I was drawing it out.  I know now this should be something to consider before cutting next time . I understand that some corset makers  will "draw" their top and bottom lines onto the corset while being fitted on the client/model/self.  This is what I tried to do but obviously failed.  Does anyone have suggestions as to how I can draft a pattern without a definite top and bottom line and still get an accurate fit. Things I am still having trouble with: the busk at the bottom of my corset points out - !!!  I don't like this and can't quite determine why.  Is it the bottom length of the back? my bust is FALLING out- there is no way I could wear this by itself without having some seriously embarrassing scenarios playing out.  How do I accomodate for my bust.  I know I can extend the length at the top but I don't know how to keep it close to my form instead of sticking out/up at the edge.  Does appliying a binding ribbon really work for this problem? Lacing boning - I used 2 lengths of spiral steel on each side of the grommets - the back is still warping!!!

Hi! I'm a grading and CAD patternmaking teacher from Australia. I've been teaching the subject for 3 years, and have been in the industry for about 10 years, so while I don't think I'm an expert, I do know quite a bit about it.
I've read a couple of posts recently about people asking about grading patterns from standard sizes.
Is the information already out there somewhere, or shall I write up tutorials on standard and custom sizing?

ETA: No problem, I'll start getting the tutorials written up! It might be after the holidays when I post them, as who wants to think about grading during Christmas time? :D

Another beautiful yet ordinary late Victorian.

More photos and construction details on my website:





http://www.laracorsets.com/Antique_corset_0115.htm

(when I post it this way is the photo too large for you all?)

for this corset i went for a victorian bodice look, so most of the boning channels are hidden by the fashion layer. 54cm waist, spiral and spring steel boning, two-part grommets, 2 layers of coutil. got some wrinkling at the bust sides :( it was fine when i did the mock-up...sigh...
(x-posted)



( detail + matching choker )

Hi,

Is there a rule of thumb for taking off measurements from patterns?

I have made several reed boned stays, drafted from my own patterns - thought I'd branch out, and make a 'new style', I bought the butterick B4254, adapted for my size (was gutted to discover the word of false sizing in shop bought clothes) and sat down to make.
I, being me, adapted the pattern, and put in two new lacing holes, from shoulder side of bust down across one pannel to the front. This should nto have altered anything, as I cut in for seam allowence, and it only affected that one pattern peice.

Its awful.

I am tall, so lengthened several inches. It hangs off my bust, doesnt tou8ch my wasit, and is far too short over the hip - just pushes my 'baby belly' out over the top of my jeans.

Is there a rule of thumb -bust, wasit and hip, you decress from a standard size?
I know this is probably a really stupid question, but find I cant get shop bought patterns that fit! What am I doing wrong!! I used reed to bone, as I dont know how to use metal boning! (and its what I had)...

Any advice?!!

Hi Everyone, I have been going through the community archives over the past couple of weeks (only up to late '07 so far). In doing this I have seen some beautiful antique forms and the amount of people that lust after them. Naturally I have a lust too and I wanted to look up how much they would run. Now while I understand antiques are pricey.... some of these forms range in the $500-$1000 range, even one at $3000! Now as much as I love all things old, and no matter how much they might be worth it I cannot plunk down that type of change. As I was falling asleep I remembered a mannequin supplier that I have used in the past for my job. When I was last there they had a peculiar and interesting form. I went to their website and lo and behold, a 21" waist with T&A. Needless to say I am excited and will be purchasing one after the new year. Are any of you folks interested? I live in NYC and their office is just a few minutes into NJ. I also checked into shipping and with a cast iron base the shipping is only $30 within the region. Added major bonus... there are 9 bases to choose from! Hope this helps some of you! Without further babbling...www.roxydisplayinc.com/webpage/bodyforms/female/black/fh02bk.html x-posted to corsetsupplies

I just bought this Butterick costume pattern because I was so intrigued by it. But frankly, I can't really place it. Does it resemble anything in particular to you?




I like it, particularly the sleeves, and want to know more about it... if you have an idea, please comment. thanks!

Hi Ladies and Gents, I am writing tonight with the hopes that someone out there would be able to point me in the right direction. After receiving a formal complaint about my hammering (whoops) I am looking into "big girl grommet setting tools". 

I have stumbled upon a vintage foot press from C&C Button and Trimming Co.  I have researched a little and found a patent from 1956-ish.

I was sent a photo of the dies this evening and I am interested to know where I might find addtl. setting dies with this long of a shank.  I have tried looking at various sources and unfortunately most do not show pictures of the individual dies so that I may compare.  Or the best, they show you one picture for all the different die types!!!

P.S.  I also came across a second foot press located in Long Island for only $50!  The old man seemed a bit cranky over email, but if you're interested I'll pass on his email!  $50 can't be beat, even if you have to drive a couple hours and deal with a crotchety old man (they always sweeten up in person, don't they)  ; )

( Please click to view Die pic )



Hi everybody!

Every year I try to make (or acquire) the same costume for the Spring/Summer Anime/Comic conventions. I have been dying to cosplay Felicia from the game Darkstalkers for some time now. I have the main costume pieces, but the paws and feet are the hardest part(s) or me. I'm looking to either commission someone or for some tips. Here's a reference picture. Thank you so much!

Hi everyone, I don't think it's been asked before: I've seen patterns and corsets, with some diagonal boning at the back, like the (oh so lovely) quilted corset Sidney Eileen made recently. I'd like to know your opinion about this kind of boning: purpose ? comfort ? does it help reduce back fat ?does it hurt your shoulder blades ? Thanks

I'm working on making my first costume. I already have all the fabric for it but I'm having a hard time finding a pattern I can use to make the top.

http://h.imagehost.org/0384/boa-hancock_1.jpg

This is the picture of the costume I'm making. I'm not even sure what kind of top it is is called. Does anyone have any input or suggestions??

Thank you!
Jackie

Today is a day for showing eye candy it seems for me.

I've been waiting for my mother to send me these. I was recently performing at the Museum of Science and Industry for Mexican Folkloric Dance and I went off to look around since I had not been there in ten years. I was walking through a replica of an old street and walked past the other end of the entrance. I noticed as I turned to the right there were two small gems that I had never seen before, but have apparently been there for at least a decade.

The Museum has two corsets on display, I ran and grabbed my mothers awesome digi cam and started snapping away at a many angles as I could. I love her zoom because it let me get into the tiny details such as flossing and boning channels in an up close look.


So without further adooooo.....I ive you my photobucket link for the 15 or so pics I took

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v372/mistress_of_pain/Museum%20Corsets/

I thought perhaps we could have a discussion, what you guys think of them, what techniques you see, etc etc.

Hope all of you enjoy it :)

While I know this is a corset community, I felt this pertained to the over fashion of the 17th century in terms of detail. We corset makers are obsessed with detail, but would you consider spending three years on a jacket? Well one museum did. They recreated a upper class jacket that included sequins and silver gilt thread that had to be reinvented because it had been out of stock for centuries.

If anyone is interested, or was a part of this, feel free to click the linkie and go see. My jaw dropped at it when I saw the picture.

http://www.boston.com/news/local/massachusetts/articles/2009/12/10/plimoth_plantation_reproduces_17th_century_embroidered_jacket/?page=1

I apologize for this taking longer than the promised week. I have no excuse other than regular life :(

That said, I'm going to work really hard in the next month to get stuff cleaned up around here. The mods have talked about the changes we'd like to see and come up with some exciting ideas on how to make things better.

1) We're getting rid of the memories (not the posts, just the memories links). Instead we'd like to create a FAQ list. We'll create a master post for each FAQ and then link "required reading" posts in that post. We'll probably also alter the tags to better reflect the FAQs so that you can click a tag for "more reading". I've also wondered if we should have a post "code word" in each FAQ post so that new posters on the topic can prove they've read, but I'm not sure we want to go that far.

2) A major problem with having memories, tags, and FAQs is that new members look at them, realize they haven't been updated in years, and think that because they're old they don't apply anymore. There is a little value to this, it is good to revisit the old topics on a regular basis and make sure that new members have a chance to put in an opinion and reevaluate the old perspective, but not too often. So, once we've set up the FAQ, we're going to set up a "FAQ Friday" post. Each Friday we'll post one FAQ question to be revisited by the community. Discussions that become incredibly informative can become "required reading", the rest will be linked in the main FAQ post as "updated/ongoing discussion." This will ensure that FAQ topics get seen on a regular basis while ensuring that the community isn't flooded with them.

3) We're going to totally redo the community info. It's disorganized and unsightly. It needs to be better, period.

4) We're also going to revisit the rules. We'll probably be rewriting all of them, just for organization and clarity, but we'll also question some of them.

One I'd specifically like to revisit is the "Eye Candy" rules. I've proposed making a stricter rule about what you must post and what you can't post when showing off work for sale. I'd like to make up a specific format and example to standardize it. On the other hand, I'd like to make the "Eye Candy" posting rule less strict for people who are not linking to a sale. I think that if you want to post a picture of a corset you've made, as long as you've made it and you're not linking to a sale, you should be able to post just the picture. I hope it would encourage posting of eye candy when you'd rather not explain how it was made. I'm open to criticism on this idea, though. Perhaps it could be limited to just one day? Or one post a week you can post inspiration links to stuff you haven't made, that may be for sale, but looks interesting enough to let people know about? What would you like to see? We'll be visiting it in January, so take some time to re-read the rules and think over what you'd like to see changed.



So, if you want to get involved, there are a few opportunities! After this post I'll be posting for people to suggest FAQ questions. Feel free to suggest as many as you think pertinent. In January we'll start going over the rules in public post (I'd like to wait until after the holidays, emotions run high due to stress and I'd like for all of us to have a fresh perspective for the discussion). As to non-public help, after we've decided on a few FAQ questions we'll be looking for a group of people to go through and suggest "required readings" and "more reading" for each question. If we decide to re-tag everything there will be work there, too. If you'd like to volunteer for any of these, you can reply in this post.

Hi everyone, I am making a corset for a very curvy lady, by far my curviest yet... I am working away on some toiles ...
Her measurements are 38" bust 26" waist and 41" hip,
the corset will measure 21" at waist.
What special advice do you have for me on super curvy seams,
much obliged, labelle

Hi everyone, Long-time lurker and admirer, first-time poster, corset-maker, and corset-wearer. I've just finished my first mockup and, being the anal-retentive person I am, wanted to ask you all for advice before I moved on to the expensive fabric :) I'm pretty pleased with the result so far. I cut out the pattern (Laughing Moon Underbust) without lengthening it as I'd expected to have to (I have a freaky long torso) and to my surprise it seems to fit quite well. I'm planning a 9 inch busk and 26 bones total, most spiral steel. I am able to close the corset completely in the back (long torso and short ribs = squishiness), but I'm not sure I'd like to go tighter anyhow, so taking in the width overall isn't really an issue. My main concerns are the stress wrinkling around the side panels. Is this normal? The wrinkles only show up when the corset is laced at its tightest. Other than that, I'm not sure if I need to let it out a bit more in the hips or not - I'm leaning towards not, as I don't feel like the 'reverse muffin top' that I feel is what is actually visible underneath it (and also because I'm on the chubby side of my weight fluctuations here). Another thing I'm wondering is if I should cut down or take in the top part of the front seam a bit - I don't like how it protrudes from my body here. Will a busk prevent this from happening? Thanks to all of you in advance for your comments and suggestions - I've already learned so much from many of you by lurking for so long, there is so much amazing work here :)

Detailed in-progress posts for this corset may be found at: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, and Part 4.

It is a commissioned tight-lacing corset, with an 18" waist when fully closed. The mesh is a heavy duty sport mesh. The boning channels are made from black coutil. The 8" busk is backed. The re-enforcement is high quality double-satin ribbon.

I am investigating other sources of suitably strong mesh materials, but they are difficult to find. The sport mesh seems to work very well, but it is synthetic, which I consider less than ideal for a corset. Embroidery canvas appears to be the best natural-material option, but it is brutally expensive and sold in small pieces by specialty embroidery shops (when figured out per-yard, it makes coutil look cheap). I am currently investigating possibly purchasing such canvas direct from the manufacturer, but I am expecting the customs fees to be obscene. If any of you would be interested in buying some of the fabric once I have it, that would help me recover from the expense.

Anyway, here's how it turned out. The bottom shaping is for a lower hip and a high back.




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